On first acquaintance Hong Kong can overwhelm. Once this first sensory wave has rolled over you, though, take a deep breath and start swimming with the current, because you’ll find Hong Kong is a place to delight in. Utterly safe and fantastically well organized, it offers little moments of perfection. Escape the city limits and other experiences a wait – watching the sun rise from a remote mountain peak, hiking surf-beaten beaches or exploring deserted islands. If it’s pampering you’re after, money can buy the ultimate luxuries in a city well used to serving its tiny, moneyed elite. Yet Hong Kong is also a city of simple pleasures. Most often it’s the least pricey experiences – a $2 tram or ferry ride, a whiff of incense curling from temple rafters, savoring fishing-village sundowners and seafood – that are the stuff of priceless memories.